Starting with Bletchley Park

We began our search for Magiovinium by simply trying to follow walk number three in the “50 Walks in Berkshire and Buckinghamshire” published by Britain’s Automobile Association (AA), which is a travel association like the U.S.’s AAA. I have to admit, this walk was something of a disappointment. I certainly wouldn’t bring any out-of-town guests on this one. I have to wonder how long it’s been since anyone from the AA has actually checked out the route they recommend. 

The walk itself is meant to celebrate the achievements of Bletchley Park, the famed home of Britain’s code-breaking efforts during World War II. Bletchley Park is worth a visit in and of itself, particularly for people interested in World War II, higher math and code-breaking and those interested in the early development of computers. We spent one long afternoon just investigating the grounds and displays at Bletchley Park. I would not have wanted to walk another six or seven miles after that visit.

So, we’re skipping the park and moving on to the other six or seven miles.     

The walk begins at Bletchley train station. Walking away from the station, you will see a green Enterprise Car Rental building across Sherwood Drive and just to the right. If you want to visit Bletchley Park, turn right and head 120 steps up the path. (This puts the Enterprise building on your left-hand side, across the street.) The way to Bletchley Park is well sign-posted. You’ll need to cross the street at the signal crossing, and you’ll see the park entrance from that crossing.

But we’re headed in the opposite direction. So, from the entrance of the train station walk instead to the road and turn left. This will put the Enterprise building on your right hand side (across the street) and behind you. You’ll see Milton Keynes College on your right, across the street, and as you head down the road you will quickly find first a fire station and then a Thames Valley police station.

You’ll want to cross to the right-hand side of Sherwood Drive before you reach the junction with Buckingham Road. Cross Buckingham to Water Eaton Road and continue forward. This will take you past a Territorial Army recruiting post (on your right-hand side). A few steps further down the path you’ll find a railway bridge, a traffic signal and a choice. Here you’ll find a public footpath leading off to the right. This will take you down a path between two fences that goes past the Pullman Swannery, which has an angling club and allows private fishing on its large pond. This sounds like it should be a pretty area, but you’re stuck on a path fenced off on both sides. The ground beyond the fences is covered with broken bottles, discarded food wrappers and other litter. It looks like the sort of abandoned back lot you could find in any city anywhere in the world. Do you really want to send your tourists here?

Once you get past the swannery and into the Blue Lagoon Nature Preserve, things look better. At least there’s no rubbish on the ground. Fishing and scuba diving are allowed in the lagoon, which is the pit of an old bricks works that flooded in the 1940s. The grassy area around the lagoon is clearly an excellent place to let your dog off his leash for a good run. As it is early spring the song birds are out in force as well. Still, I wouldn’t bring the out-of-town guests here.

And here is where the directions really failed us. We actually attempted this walk twice and this is the place where we ended up lost and confused both times. Again, if you know the area, no bother. There are other (and more pleasant) paths to take. 

Watling Street

Magiovinium was a Roman fort that stood just off the throughway known then and now as Watling Street.

Watling Street is an ancient route, first created in the time of the Celts (or perhaps earlier) and used by the Romans as a main thoroughfare. It is still in use today. In Roman times Watling Street ran (the BBC explains in detail here) from Dover and Richborough on the coast of Kent (i.e. from the English Channel) east to west across Britain’s mid-section to Wroxeter. It eventually crosses the River Severn and turns south to connect with Stone Street, which led to major Atlantic coast seaports. Traveling on foot an ambitious 30-plus miles a day you could walk Watling Street from end to end in about twelve days. Maybe we’ll try that one later. The walk we planned to follow runs a mere six to seven, depending on which route you choose.

 The website of the Milton Keynes Museum describes how the military needs of the Romans led to the paving of Watling Street and the creation of the small fort called Magiovinium: 


"From the earliest times it is thought that it was a track for the passage of man and beasts, providing an easier route from the gap in the Greensand escarpment at Brickhill to the fordable crossing of the Ouse at Stratford. With the coming of the Romans, the invasion force had a need for improved communications, and so a hardened road surface was required together with camps at about 12 mile intervals (representing a days march for an army with all its ancillary equipment). Magiovinium was established near to the site of the present Dropshort Farm, and probably originated as a tented encampment and later replaced by more substantial buildings. To the north and south were other stopping off places at Lactodorum (Towcester) and Durocobrovae (Dunstable). The road itself was typically about 24 feet wide to allow chariots to pass safely, and consisted of rammed gravel in the countryside, or stone paved surfaces in the larger towns, which were subject to greater wear and tear. The surface was cambered to allow water to drain, and was often raised on low embankments where it crossed marshy or low lying ground.


When the Romans departed these shores, roads generally fell into disrepair, and Watling Street was no different."

The oldest gold coin in Britain ...

I was drawn to this particular walk because it passes the remains of a Roman fort named Magiovinium or Magiovinto, depending on who you read. The fort’s remains lay in a field just off Watling Street in Fenny Stratford. Magiovinium is the place where one of the oldest (if not the oldest) gold coins in Britain was found by an ordinary guy with a metal detector. Cool.  The coin is currently on display at the British museum in London. Magiovinium was apparently the site of a coin-making enterprise. Arguments continue as to whether this was legitimate enterprise or a counterfeiter at work.